and this is what happens when one fails. This is what a panorama that has worked looks like. at the end of this stage you should have 1 composite image for each Panorama you took. If it doesn't, try it in another stitching application, or worst case, use Photo Merge in Photoshop or PtGUI to do it (semi) manually. In most cases this will just work and produce a composite image will not contain many perceivable errors. Auto-crop works well, but auto-complete less so (especially if your legs are in shot), so I usually just accept the cropped image, and export that. Choose Simple Panorama / Automatic Stitch, which should choose rotational source as its method and produce a decent composite panoramic image, which you should save in a hi-res lossless format like TIFF or PNG. For each variation of the Panorama we need to load all 18 photos into your chosen stitching program (instructions below for MS ICE) We need each set of Pano pics in its own folder so we don't get confused, so if doing 2 of them, name the folders accordingly, 'light', 'dark' etc. This is how you can solve the 'sky constantly too bright' problem that tends to occur with single-set panoramas.
We can proceed with just 1 set of Panorama photos, but for more control of dynamic range later, you can set your exposure differently, and then run the Pano routine again while the craft is still in the same place, to produce another set of lighter or darker photos, which we can stitch separately, and then combine with the first in post later if we like, so that we get versions with a) the sky and b) the ground perfectly exposed. Most stitching programs have problems matching the horizon more than anything else, so this is worth considering.
Higher is not necessarily better with Panoramas - if you can be low enough to have some trees / detailed objects at the horizon that will help the stitching work. It will take about 1 minute to complete and may pause longer on some shots than others. Check it is not moving around too much before you start the Pano record sequence with the Photo button. Make sure you have GPS lock, and then park your UAV somewhere in space. Set exposure by pointing your camera at the sky, 90-180 degrees away from where the sun is now.
Hugin tutorial manual#
Use Manual Exposure, Locked White Balance, and no ND Filter. Overcast days produce the best results because of the lack of hard shadows and more diffuse light, but we can win on sunny days too if we remove the multiple lens flares later. Tap the little shutter icon that appears, and set the panorama mode to Double layer (18 shot) On your controller, Go to Photo Mode, and set that to Panorama.
Setting up the craft to produce good panoramas
An FTP file transfer app like Filezilla (free)ġ. An Image Editor like Photoshop, GIMP (free) etcĤ.
Hugin tutorial full#
If you want full manual control, go straight to Hugin, but if you want to spend some cash PtGUI is very good too.Ģ. A Panorama Stitching Application: I use MS ICE (free), and on the rare occasions where that fails, Hugin (free), PhotoStitcher (£20) or PhotoMerge in Photoshop (CS2 or higher). Grading the composite photo, re-canvasing to 2:1, conforming the sky, and spot fixing of any errorsġ. There are several stages to making a working online interactive panoramic photo like this one. Work in progress, so will be adding more details / screenies in due course. Here's a fairly in-depth tut on creating Panoramas with the H/H+.
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